Don Pavlik My S4 came with the factory Bose stereo system. True to the Bose reputation, the top end of the system is rolled off significantly and is just plain awful. Some instruments, a triangle for example, are so poorly reproduced it can barely be heard when compared to a system that properly reproduces the same passage. My goal was to improve the top end, improve the presence, detail and move the stage of the music forward all the while keeping the project budget small and with little impact on the stock appearance of the car. The stock tweeters are 1" drivers.
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Don Pavlik My S4 came with the factory Bose stereo system. True to the Bose reputation, the top end of the system is rolled off significantly and is just plain awful. Some instruments, a triangle for example, are so poorly reproduced it can barely be heard when compared to a system that properly reproduces the same passage.
My goal was to improve the top end, improve the presence, detail and move the stage of the music forward all the while keeping the project budget small and with little impact on the stock appearance of the car.
The stock tweeters are 1" drivers. I demoed a handful of tweeters and finally decided on Dynaudio MD tweeters as they were pleasing to my ear and were the perfect size to put into the stock speaker location.
Since this was only a tweeter replacement I chose to use the factory amp to run the speakers both are 4 ohm. The factory tweeters are crossed over at around 8khz. The MD s can be crossed over as low as 2. I decided to cross mine over at around 4khz. The difference in sound over stock with the MD is very noticeable and a very worthwhile upgrade.
They offer much improved detail, better stage, the stage is more forward and improved frequency response. Very smooth. They give the factory system more extension without going overboard. If you want ear bleed treble these are not for you.
The skill level of this install is pretty reasonable, maybe a 4 on a scale of As always, if you do not possess the skill, tools or knowledge to complete a project please leave it to a professional. Suggested Tools and Supplies Small and medium slotted screwdriver Wire cutters Regular, needle nose, and diagonal cutting pliers Dremel tool not truly necessary but high recommended or a round file Spade terminals Electrical tape or shrink wrap if you wish Small amount of speaker wire Crimp tool or soldering iron and solder 5 minute epoxy 2 - 10 uF capacitors assuming a 4khz crossover point Flashlight Start by removing the speaker from the door.
The door trim piece just pops out. Insert a screwdriver between the front edge of the speaker grill and the door panel. Once the front edge is unclipped the grill just pivots out.
Disconnect the harness and remove the factory speaker from the door trim. Release the tabs and pry the speaker out. Disassemble the MD tweeters. They are bolted into the plastic trim with a small nut on the back. Once the nut is removed the speaker assembly just pulls apart.
Mind the very delicate wires going to the voice coil!! MD tweeter out of its trim ring Bad vs. And, down inside of the bore of the mounting hole the little nubs on the hole wall must be removed as the body of the new tweeter is just a smidge bigger in diameter no need to remove the stops at the bottom. Trim the locking tabs off flush Grind off the 3 little nubs on the bore wall Slide the new speaker into the trim piece. This requires a bit of attention as the dome of the tweeter will touch the speaker grill before the speaker body bottoms out on the stops in the bore.
Shine a light through the grill and look through the slots in the bore to position the dome of the tweeter near but not touching the grill. Mark the position and mix up some 5 minute epoxy. Put 3 blobs of epoxy around the body to secure the speaker to the trim piece. While the epoxy is drying, make up some short speaker leads. On my car, the factory wiring harness was too short to work with so I made short extensions with the spade terminals and the capacitor. You must use a capacitor! For the capacitor, remember the negative lead goes to the positive terminal of the speaker.
Make sure to observe polarity while wiring everything or your stereo image will be poor. Connect the short harness to the factory wiring with the scotch-loc connectors then, hook everything up. Properly insulate everything with electrical tape or shrink wrap to prevent shorts.
Clearance is very tight. Snap the door trim back into the door panel. Enjoy nice clear tweeters! Dynoaudio MD Approx cost.
Esotec MD 102 Soft Dome Tweeter for aftermarket car audio
Tell a friend Esotec MD Soft Dome Tweeter for aftermarket car audio The Esotec MD soft-dome tweeter features a special coating that yields an extended high frequency response free of distortion. Technical Specifications The 28mm 1. The coating also serves to eliminate any high frequency break-ups, while providing improved damping. The MD tweeter rear chamber is also sealed and acoustically damped to eliminate high frequency distortion that could be caused by back-wave reflections, while ferrofluid cooling adds damping and additional power handling. For the most authentic and dynamic high-frequency reproduction - powerful Neodymium - one of the most efficient but also most expensive magnetic materials for loudspeaker construction is used in the tweeter magnet systems. The MD features an aluminum voice coil, a Dynaudio hallmark, which has been improved via an increased coil height with additional windings to allow an increased range of linear excursion within the magnetic field. As a result of the low moving mass of the new voice coil, a higher maximum output level and increased dynamics are achieved, while the frequency range has been expanded, thus allowing a better integration with the upper midrange frequencies to deliver a more natural sound with an open, detailed and incredibly transparent reproduction of the high frequencies.
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